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« : 14 Сентябрь 2023, 10:13:09 »

Watches and Wonders 2023: Vacheron Constantin With complications and numerous calendar models in each collection, Vacheron Constantin has laid the foundation for an exciting year.

Last year, Vacheron Constantin launched a timepiece beloved by collectors and lovers of horological history: the Ref. 222 pieces, in an extremely limited quantity. Of course, everyone hopes that one day this limited-time-only white gold or even steel version will reappear. However, the brand has now turned its attention to other collections, starting with a complication watch from the Les Cabinotiers collection.

Les Cabinotiers Bi-monthly Grand Complication Watch
Les Cabonotiers is one of Vacheron Constantin's most exclusive products, offering a bespoke service as well as unique pieces produced every year. These range from art watches to highly complex timepieces. The Bi-Moon Super Complication watch clearly belongs to the latter.

Moon phase complications have made a comeback recently. More than ten years ago, Piaget launched the Emperador Coussin Large Moon, equipped with a huge and realistic gold-plated moon disk, which is a feast for the eyes. The Bi-Moon Grand Complication watch takes the moon phase display to a higher level. The double moon display is located in the center of the dial instead of at the bottom as usual, showing the moon as seen from both hemispheres on a dark blue disk that is scattered with white gold powder to represent the starry night sky. The moons are extremely lifelike, achieved through micron-scale diamond cuts that create depth in the moons' uneven craters. The moon phase is accurate to 122 years and 16 days and requires manual adjustment.

Combined with the moon phase display is the watch's perpetual calendar function. The top of the dial is arc-shaped with a retrograde date and two partial windows to display the date and month. There is a small leap year window next to the crown. The white gold case pairs perfectly with a brushed silver dial and white date indicators that contrast with the moon phases. On the left is the minute repeater slider hidden in the watch, which can tell the time on demand.

The back of the watch displays another complication: a map of the northern hemisphere sky following sidereal time. This is the time it takes for the Earth to complete a complete rotation based on a fixed point in the night sky. A stunning starry sky chart is mounted on a sapphire crystal and slowly moves according to the month, sometimes covering the tourbillon that can be seen from the back.

This is a unique piece with 11 complications, powered by one of Vacheron Constantin's most complex movements – Caliber 2755 TMRCCQP. It is certified by the Hallmark of Geneva and has a power reserve of 58 hours.

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More retrograde dates
Mercury is not retrograde, but Vacheron Constantin's calendar watch is. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is a newly released watch that recalls two important milestones for the brand – the Twin Beat and the Ref. 47247 launched in 2002. The latter is a calendar model with day of the week and retrograde date indicators mounted on a skeletonized dial.

The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface updates this look with a very modern, almost unconventional design. A fluted, curved skeleton dial sits in the upper half of the display and features a retrograde date indicator. It is mounted on top of the movement bridge, which is decorated with a similar groove design. Rose gold hour markers float above the watch, marked by a minute track that circles the dial. The lower part of the watch is the watchmaker's symbol, the Maltese Cross Tourbillon.

The watch is powered by caliber 2162 R31, which is self-winding via a peripheral swinging rotor. This ensures that the tourbillon and movement details on both sides of the watch can be seen uninterrupted, and keeps it running accurately and smoothly at all times. The watch has a three-day power reserve.

Another retrograde date watch has now appeared in the Overseas collection, a first for the brand. This sporty-chic model combines classic watch design with a dynamic twist so it never feels dated. In fact, we hope to see more similar retrograde displays overseas. The Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch has a retrograde date display on the upper half of the dial and a moon phase window at 6 o'clock.

Vacheron Constantin has designed it in such a way that the two date displays appear to radiate outward from the bottom of the dial in a fan-shaped fashion, giving the watch an elegant look. The vivid blue on the dial is applied in different ways, from the date indicator to the moon phase display, creating a unified look that plays on shadows, textures and depth. The watch is a self-winding model and is powered by the full rotor caliber 2460 R31L/2, which provides 40 hours of power. Like all Overseas models, it comes with a switch for easy strap changes and comes with the option of a bracelet or rubber.

The Patrimony collection introduces its fourth retrograde day and date watch with a new salmon-coloured dial. This is a new variant of an existing model, presented in a platinum case with a rose gold Maltese cross logo. Rather than the standard black printing, the brand opted for blue printing in place of the calendar display, with matching blue hands to display the date and day of the week.

All in all, this is a year full of fresh designs for Vacheron Constantin, with more to come in the coming months.

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